Sweetbreads are a delicacy for fans of offal, and their creamy soft texture works particularly well within a crunchy coating. Here we’ve served them with a sauce gribiche full of fragrant tarragon and piquant capers and cornichons. This would make an elegant starter or light lunch.
Cover the sweetbreads with milk and leave to soak overnight in the fridge.
The next day, bring a pan of water to a boil and blanch the sweetbreads for 30 seconds, then refresh in iced water. Peel away any outer membranes.
Make the gribiche sauce by covering 2 of the eggs with cold water. Bring to the boil, cook for 8 minutes, then cool in cold water. Peel and separate the yolks and whites.
Mix the mustard, 1 tablespoon of the vinegar, a good pinch of salt and a good pinch of sugar. Mash in the egg yolks until well combined.
Slowly add the oil, whisking continuously as if making mayonnaise. Continue until all the oil is used up. (Tip: if the mixture splits it can be saved by starting with a fresh raw egg yolk and whisking the split mixture in slowly, as with a split mayonnaise).
Finely chop the egg whites and add them to the sauce with the capers, cornichons, tarragon and parsley. Season with salt and add more vinegar if necessary (the sauce should be piquant).
Pat the sweetbreads dry with kitchen paper.
Spread one plate with flour and season with salt, the paprika and the white pepper.
Cover another plate with the remaining two eggs (beaten) and another with panko.
Heat oil for deep frying to 180C.
Coat each sweetbread in the flour, egg then breadcrumbs. Deep fry for a minute or so each side, until golden. Drain on kitchen paper (sweetbreads can be kept warm in a low oven).
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